# Welcome

<figure><img src="https://240026025-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-x-prod.appspot.com/o/spaces%2FuOSMTYNOdnwNOUjyBqZs%2Fuploads%2FeL9RuGNbHaOsZPNCO0dR%2F1387727.jfif?alt=media&amp;token=40f2fa15-809b-493f-bb3b-5730a030adf3" alt=""><figcaption><p>me</p></figcaption></figure>

My name is Charlie and here you can find various coding / 3d print / electronics projects I've done.


# Common Components

Here you can find the different components I use for my projects and setup

***

## USB Stuff

* ### USB-PD Trigger Boards

* 5V Trigger Board - <https://u.cray.io/5v-trigger-board> \[Amazon]

  This board can accommodate other voltages but I only use it for 5V since you need to bridge pads to get the voltage you want. Bridge the following pads to get 5V (and of course verify with multimeter):

  <figure><img src="https://240026025-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-x-prod.appspot.com/o/spaces%2FuOSMTYNOdnwNOUjyBqZs%2Fuploads%2F9kqbCzqPKeT7NPrNnHEE%2Fimage.png?alt=media&amp;token=b9d5e549-90a9-4e77-b542-6ad3bed8dfff" alt="" width="321"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

* 9V, 12V, 15V, 20V Trigger Boards - <https://u.cray.io/pd-trigger-boards> \[Amazon]

  I prefer these boards when I need something other than 5V as they work out of the box

### USB-C Connectors

* Male/Female - <https://u.cray.io/usb-c-connectors> \[Amazon]

### USB-C Power Meter

* USB-C Power Meter - <https://u.cray.io/usb-c-power-monitor> \[Amazon]

### USB-PD Power Supplies

* Mackertop 100W - <https://u.cray.io/usb-pd-power-mackertop> \[Amazon]

  This supply supports: 5V3A / 9V3A / 12V3A / 15V3A / 20V5A
* Anker 100W - <https://u.cray.io/usb-pd-power-anker> \[Amazon]

  This supply supports: 5V3A / 9V3A / 15V3A / 20V5A (**Note**: No 12V support!)

### USB-C Cables

* Anker Cables - <https://u.cray.io/usb-c-cable-anker> \[Amazon]

  All around great cables - really can't go wrong with these.
* AUFU Magnentic USB Cables - <https://u.cray.io/usb-c-cable-aufu> \[AliExpress]

  These cables are awesome and allow you to quickly attach and detach to your devices. They support USB-C, MicroUSB, and Lightning connector. You can purchase additional inserts to support several devices. I've started using these everywhere.

***

## Electronics Stuff

### Buck Converters

* 5A Buck Converter - <https://u.cray.io/buck-converter-d-planet> \[Amazon]

### PCB Prototype Board

* Double Sided PCB Kit - <https://u.cray.io/pcb-elegoo> \[Amazon]

### Pin Headers

* Right Angle Male - <https://u.cray.io/pin-header-right-angle> \[Amazon]
* Straight Male - <https://u.cray.io/pin-header-straight> \[Amazon]

***

## Screws & Stuff

* M2 Phillips Screws - <https://u.cray.io/m2-phillips-screws> \[Amazon]
* M3 x 6mm Phillips Screws - <https://u.cray.io/m3-phillips-screws-6mm> \[Amazon]


# Nintendo Replacement Cartridge Slot

{% hint style="warning" %}
I am not a professional and have little experience designing PCBs.\
\
I provide this project as-is, without warranty of any kind, written or implied.\
\
**Build / install this at your own risk!**
{% endhint %}

{% hint style="warning" %}
Every cartridge slot I've been able to test has a ridiculously tight grip - to the point where you might need to take apart your console to eject your cartridge if you slot it in all the way, especially after the first few connection cycles. \
\
Due to this, **I can not recommend that you proceed with this project unless you plan to use a single cartridge, such as an EverDrive.**
{% endhint %}

## Required Components

{% file src="/files/MHRWdZ1kLY1VwAKj5p4K" %}
Gerber File - © 2023 by Charles Ray Shisler III licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
{% endfile %}

{% file src="/files/W4lRXahw6qwCp70vllXv" %}
3D Print STEP File - © 2023 by Charles Ray Shisler III licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0\
Also available on Printables: <https://www.printables.com/model/536080-blinking-light-win-replacement-tray>
{% endfile %}

{% embed url="<https://u.cray.io/nes-72-pin-connector>" %}
Nintendo 72-Pin Connector (AliExpress)
{% endembed %}

## Optional Components

{% embed url="<https://u.cray.io/nes-72-pin-connector-low-profile>" %}
Low-Profile Nintendo 72-Pin Connector (For Bottom Slot) (AliExpress)
{% endembed %}

{% file src="/files/ILxH1BXPCt6KeK6ED4Zw" %}
3D Print STEP File - © 2023 by Charles Ray Shisler III licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
{% endfile %}

{% file src="/files/FsqxvxTj9MW4JjRLXhh3" %}
3D Print STEP File - © 2023 by Charles Ray Shisler III licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
{% endfile %}

{% embed url="<https://www.printables.com/model/455830-nes-cartridge-extractor>" %}
NES Cartridge Extractor by Natpie on Printables<br>
{% endembed %}

***

## Ordering The PCB

I like to order from JLCPCB as they are pretty cheap and arrive in roughly two weeks. When importing the zip file, you should be able to use the default settings. I typically set "Via Covering" to "Untented", even though there aren't any vias, just because of personal paranoia, but you **shouldn't** need to do so.

I would recommend removing the order number as there isn't a designated spot for it in case you want to order from elsewhere.

<figure><img src="https://240026025-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-x-prod.appspot.com/o/spaces%2FuOSMTYNOdnwNOUjyBqZs%2Fuploads%2Fufa8SxjYNscOnwAhNYi1%2Fimage.png?alt=media&amp;token=309a97ec-e0c4-4818-8dc1-d9459eec4c4f" alt=""><figcaption><p>Example order from JLCPCB</p></figcaption></figure>

***

## Printing The Tray

I print on a BambuLab P1P and these are the settings I use, though you might need to adjust for your printer:

* 0.4mm Nozzle
* 0.20mm Standard Layer Height
* At Least 3 Wall Loops (2 leads to the back brackets being too pliable)
* Gyroid Sparse Infill
* Normal Supports with 5mm Base Pattern Spacing
* 5mm Outer and Inner Brim

<figure><img src="https://240026025-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-x-prod.appspot.com/o/spaces%2FuOSMTYNOdnwNOUjyBqZs%2Fuploads%2F5W3cqmrwVQhVLlJVeeUh%2Fimage.png?alt=media&amp;token=6b1949dd-4420-42af-95bc-7511032c7790" alt=""><figcaption><p>BambuSlicer estimated print time and material cost</p></figcaption></figure>

The main support may look difficult to remove, but you should be able to get it in one clean piece by using something like a putty knife and slowly working it off.

***

## Assembling The PCB

Assembling the PCB should be relatively self-explanatory, but a few key points (pictures pending):

* Each slot should be on the same side as the text on the PCB (meaning you solder on the side with no text).
* You need two cartridge slots - you can either purchase two of the normal connectors linked above, or one of each (normal slot and low-profile). If you forgo purchasing the low-profile slot, you will need to take one of the normal slots and cut off the "feet" so that the connector sits flush on the bottom, like pictured in the link for the low-profile slot.
* If you want to make soldering both slots easier, you can print the solder jig that is included in this document. This should make the PCB sit flush and level with both slots inserted.
* Once soldered, I would recommend snipping the slot pins on the bottom connector as they will be longer than the top connector pins. You can use the attached pin cutting jig to get roughly the same length for both sets of pins.

## Installing The Replacement

The process should be pretty simple (pictures pending):

1. Remove the six (6) screws from the bottom of the Nintendo unit and take the top off
2. Remove the top shielding from the console
3. Remove the old tray and ZIF connector
4. Insert the new slot, with the "bottom" slot connecting to the main Nintendo PCB
5. Lower the new tray onto the main Nintendo PCB, with the slot PCB going through the grooves/slots in the back
6. Re-assemble the Nintendo fully

{% hint style="info" %}
At this point, the process should be complete and you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.\
\
Please heed my previous warnings about the grip strength of the connectors - If you need to remove a cartridge, you can try to print and assemble the NES Cartridge Extractor models that were created by Natpie and linked above.
{% endhint %}


