Nintendo Replacement Cartridge Slot

Last updated 1 year ago

Nintendo Replacement Cartridge Slot

I am not a professional and have little experience designing PCBs. I provide this project as-is, without warranty of any kind, written or implied. Build / install this at your own risk!

Every cartridge slot I've been able to test has a ridiculously tight grip - to the point where you might need to take apart your console to eject your cartridge if you slot it in all the way, especially after the first few connection cycles. Due to this, I can not recommend that you proceed with this project unless you plan to use a single cartridge, such as an EverDrive.

Required Components

Optional Components

Ordering The PCB

I like to order from JLCPCB as they are pretty cheap and arrive in roughly two weeks. When importing the zip file, you should be able to use the default settings. I typically set "Via Covering" to "Untented", even though there aren't any vias, just because of personal paranoia, but you shouldn't need to do so.

I would recommend removing the order number as there isn't a designated spot for it in case you want to order from elsewhere.

Printing The Tray

I print on a BambuLab P1P and these are the settings I use, though you might need to adjust for your printer:

0.4mm Nozzle
0.20mm Standard Layer Height
At Least 3 Wall Loops (2 leads to the back brackets being too pliable)
Gyroid Sparse Infill
Normal Supports with 5mm Base Pattern Spacing
5mm Outer and Inner Brim

The main support may look difficult to remove, but you should be able to get it in one clean piece by using something like a putty knife and slowly working it off.

Assembling The PCB

Assembling the PCB should be relatively self-explanatory, but a few key points (pictures pending):

Each slot should be on the same side as the text on the PCB (meaning you solder on the side with no text).
You need two cartridge slots - you can either purchase two of the normal connectors linked above, or one of each (normal slot and low-profile). If you forgo purchasing the low-profile slot, you will need to take one of the normal slots and cut off the "feet" so that the connector sits flush on the bottom, like pictured in the link for the low-profile slot.
If you want to make soldering both slots easier, you can print the solder jig that is included in this document. This should make the PCB sit flush and level with both slots inserted.
Once soldered, I would recommend snipping the slot pins on the bottom connector as they will be longer than the top connector pins. You can use the attached pin cutting jig to get roughly the same length for both sets of pins.

Installing The Replacement

The process should be pretty simple (pictures pending):

Remove the six (6) screws from the bottom of the Nintendo unit and take the top off
Remove the top shielding from the console
Remove the old tray and ZIF connector
Insert the new slot, with the "bottom" slot connecting to the main Nintendo PCB
Lower the new tray onto the main Nintendo PCB, with the slot PCB going through the grooves/slots in the back
Re-assemble the Nintendo fully

At this point, the process should be complete and you can enjoy the fruits of your labor. Please heed my previous warnings about the grip strength of the connectors - If you need to remove a cartridge, you can try to print and assemble the NES Cartridge Extractor models that were created by Natpie and linked above.

Last updated 1 year ago

I am not a professional and have little experience designing PCBs. I provide this project as-is, without warranty of any kind, written or implied. Build / install this at your own risk!

Required Components

Optional Components

Ordering The PCB

I would recommend removing the order number as there isn't a designated spot for it in case you want to order from elsewhere.

Printing The Tray

I print on a BambuLab P1P and these are the settings I use, though you might need to adjust for your printer:

0.4mm Nozzle
0.20mm Standard Layer Height
At Least 3 Wall Loops (2 leads to the back brackets being too pliable)
Gyroid Sparse Infill
Normal Supports with 5mm Base Pattern Spacing
5mm Outer and Inner Brim

The main support may look difficult to remove, but you should be able to get it in one clean piece by using something like a putty knife and slowly working it off.

Assembling The PCB

Assembling the PCB should be relatively self-explanatory, but a few key points (pictures pending):

Each slot should be on the same side as the text on the PCB (meaning you solder on the side with no text).
You need two cartridge slots - you can either purchase two of the normal connectors linked above, or one of each (normal slot and low-profile). If you forgo purchasing the low-profile slot, you will need to take one of the normal slots and cut off the "feet" so that the connector sits flush on the bottom, like pictured in the link for the low-profile slot.
If you want to make soldering both slots easier, you can print the solder jig that is included in this document. This should make the PCB sit flush and level with both slots inserted.
Once soldered, I would recommend snipping the slot pins on the bottom connector as they will be longer than the top connector pins. You can use the attached pin cutting jig to get roughly the same length for both sets of pins.

Installing The Replacement

The process should be pretty simple (pictures pending):

Remove the six (6) screws from the bottom of the Nintendo unit and take the top off
Remove the top shielding from the console
Remove the old tray and ZIF connector
Insert the new slot, with the "bottom" slot connecting to the main Nintendo PCB
Lower the new tray onto the main Nintendo PCB, with the slot PCB going through the grooves/slots in the back
Re-assemble the Nintendo fully